Dean Street, the new Prospect Heights restaurant and bar serving up eats by ex-Spotted Pig chef Nate Smith, is surely a sign of the neighborhood’s gradual evolution. And certainly many locals, myself included, are happy to add this locale to the growing list of great neighborhood haunts. Last Sunday, with my parents in town, we decided to give the newbie a try. The experience was anything but exhilarating. Indeed, much of the oversight may just be attributed to the unseasoned staff. Instead of recounting the night of failed attempts on their behalf I propose to map out a way in which one can avoid all the bear traps we so helplessly walked into that night. For starters, skip the starters. The meager size of the appetizers seemed to be more suitable for an upscale uptown triple dollar-sign eatery. The ingredients however (fried cheese, pickles, deviled eggs) hint at more heartwarming fare. And so, it’s best to be more moderate with your wants and wallet and save your curiosity for the main attraction. You’ll find the tastiest dishes on the menu to be the most economical ones as well.
The special, pork shoulder with duck fat fried potatoes, was the most expensive and the most moderately sized dish. What it lacked in dimensions it made up for in saltiness. The only way to explain this: less is more. On the flip side, five-stars should be awarded to the half chicken well complemented with mashed sweet potatoes. The hamburger, the M.V.P. of the kitchen, holds its own with its lovely pink center and hearty helping of fries. At twelve bucks you can’t go wrong.
Any entrée can and should be accompanied by a cool pint of Kelso of Brooklyn beer. As for dessert: Forty & Twenty Blackbirds. Enough said. All in all, try treating Dean Street like something more than a local joint with exceptionally good bar food and you’re sure to pay for it. Why waist your time coveting one of the tables in the back dining area? Embrace your draft and order at the bar!
Check out the restaurant here: http://www.deanstreetbrooklyn.com/
Check out their menu here: http://www.menupages.com/restaurants/dean-street/menu
Four & Twenty Blackbirds: http://birdsblack.com/
Kelso of Brooklyn: http://www.kelsoofbrooklyn.com/
